A Fly Leader for the California Surf

     For all the thought and effort directed toward preparing to fish, it never serves to treat the terminal gear as a self-actualizing afterthought. Regarding leaders used when targeting surfperch, you often hear it said: “Oh I just use six feet of _____. ” Fill in the blank with the appropriate tippet size.

And sure that’ll get you by, though it is somewhat less than the ideal way to go. Such a leader, usually 12 or 15lb test, doesn’t turn over heavy Clouser type flies as well as we’d like, and is prone to tangling in rough surf conditions.

Here’s a surf leader that is almost as simple, while a lot more functional than just the straight, six foot leader:

Seaguar Red Label fluorocarbon is a good choice for making our surf leader, and readily available (Walmart carries it). The leader butt is made from 3’ of 20lb test, giving the leader some ass for turning over heavier flies. The butt section is semi-permanent and can be attached to the fly line with either a nail knot or loop-to-loop connection. Attach a small, #12 or #14 barrel swivel to the tippet end of the leader butt. I like a uni knot (San Diego knot) for this, as it is infallible and won’t crinkle the leader. Now tie whatever length of tippet you choose to the swivel to complete the leader. The swivel not only makes changing tippets easier (and cheaper, saving material), but also keeps your line from twisting as the fly is rolled in the surf – which is what causes the running line to twist and tangle in the stripping basket, resulting in fouled casts.

For a heavier version of this leader use 30lb test fluoro for the butt section.  

A few leader rigging possibilities:

    The ‘dropper squids’ are tied on #2-#6 short-shanked hooks. The flies are tied as follows: Wind thread from the hook eye to the middle of the hook shank. Tie in a pinch of calf tail (kip) or artificial 'hair' of your choice, spread around the hook shank – tips should extend about the length of the hook beyond the hook bend. Wind the thread forward half way to the hook eye and coat with head cement. Tie in a pinch of kip and spread around the hook shank – tips should extend to about the center of the first pinch tied in. Add a few strands of flash and/or dyed mallard or gadwall flank barbs (use your imagination here regarding added appendages and fetching highlights). Wind the thread forward to the hook eye and coat with cement. Tie in a pinch of kip behind the hook eye, the tips extending to about the middle of the previous clump, and finish. The result, when wet, should be a teardrop or ‘squid’ shape. 

Though some like it, I find the 3-fly cast a bit of a hassle to fish in all but the calmest of conditions, but I like the 2-fly rig, which fishes cleaner and really does raise the fish-count. Nearly half my fish are on the dropper most outings and, some days, the smaller dropper flies are all perch seem to want. The dropper fly fishes best on a 1 1/2"-2" long  loop, 12" to 15" above the tail fly. Or one leg of the loop may be clipped to create a single-strand dropper, though the loop seems to work just as well and makes it easier to change dropper flies. 

~Steve